Washing Cadpat
- Thread starter rrr965
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I havent used cadpat, but i have been told by a few guys who have and they said when washing to turn them inside out.
It depends a little bit on the detergent you use. I was pretty good with washing it with Cheer in the beginning and the fading was minimal... then I started to use Tide tablets when I was away in the summer and the fading began, mostly with the black pattern.
But this wasn‘t done in a science lab or anything, it‘s just mere speculation on my part that Tide, while it gets whites white, might does too good a job on your Cadpats :-D
But this wasn‘t done in a science lab or anything, it‘s just mere speculation on my part that Tide, while it gets whites white, might does too good a job on your Cadpats :-D
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I wash mine normally. I‘ve had ‘em for about a year, washing them on a reservists schedule.. (Wearing them full-time for a few months in the summer, then once or twice a week during the parading year..)
There is a bit of fading, but it‘s not bad and doesn‘t seem to be getting worse beyond the initial fading.
There is a bit of fading, but it‘s not bad and doesn‘t seem to be getting worse beyond the initial fading.
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Wash as per normal.
S
Superman
Guest
Since we are on the topic of washing stuff... I just got some kit for like sleeping bags and stuff... Some of it STINKS.... how can I clean it so I dont have to plug my noes while I sleep on an ex.. The main thing that stinks is that one kinda waterproof layer that looks like it goes on the ground under your sleeping bag... And im sure the sleeping bags them self arnt to clean either... any ideas?
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Cadpat washed like any other dark clothing, in cold or luke warm water...never hot.
Sleeping bags are dry clean,
Everything else can be washed in a machine(boots, helmet, etc obviously cannot). Go to a laundymat with the super large washers and do your field stuff there.
Sleeping bags are dry clean,
Everything else can be washed in a machine(boots, helmet, etc obviously cannot). Go to a laundymat with the super large washers and do your field stuff there.
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Most ground sheets do stink... mine smells fine though...
Biggest thing, soon as you get home from an exercise, take them out, and hang them for 24 hours. If you leave them balled up in a valise bag wet, of course they‘re going to smell, they‘re going to get mouldy.
If it already stinks, hang it outside on a clothes line for 72 hours or so, hose it down with a garden hose, a lot, and leave it do dry.
Ex Ranger Instructor
Full Member
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Don‘t ever put your groundsheet in the washer. It will ruin it.
M
mattoigta
Guest
Whats the best way to clean a ruck? Using soap and a brush hasnt worked the best for me in the past
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How to actually clean your ruck, or how to clean it for an inspection? If you‘re cleaning it for an inspection, usually you just want to clean the visible dirt, so a cloth, and a bit of water usually does the trick for me.
If you want to actually clean it? I fill the laundry sink with warm water, throw in a half cup of detergent, and toss the ruck in (Take it apart first) and leave it to soak for a couple of hours. I usually toss my webbing components in at the same time. After it‘s soaked for a good couple of hours, I take everything out, drop it in a bucket so the water doesn‘t run everywhere, then then vigorously work the items one at a time in the tub (a couple at a time for the smaller stuff).
Then I rinse, and repeat... keep doing this until your rinse water stops turning brown... it‘ll take a half dozen rinses to get the stuff truly clean.
Seems a bit excessive, but if nothing else, do this with the back-pad from your ruck and the yoke from your webbing... there‘s no garuntee that they were well cleaned when they were turned in, and if that‘s the case, they probably have years of built up sweat on them.
If you want to actually clean it? I fill the laundry sink with warm water, throw in a half cup of detergent, and toss the ruck in (Take it apart first) and leave it to soak for a couple of hours. I usually toss my webbing components in at the same time. After it‘s soaked for a good couple of hours, I take everything out, drop it in a bucket so the water doesn‘t run everywhere, then then vigorously work the items one at a time in the tub (a couple at a time for the smaller stuff).
Then I rinse, and repeat... keep doing this until your rinse water stops turning brown... it‘ll take a half dozen rinses to get the stuff truly clean.
Seems a bit excessive, but if nothing else, do this with the back-pad from your ruck and the yoke from your webbing... there‘s no garuntee that they were well cleaned when they were turned in, and if that‘s the case, they probably have years of built up sweat on them.
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I go to the large Laundymat washers because they just tumble the items inside, not agitate them like a normal home washer. That prevents the damage that was mentioned before. I‘ve been doing that for a few yrs, and has worked fine for me.
Also wash in cold or lukewarm water...never hot.
Also wash in cold or lukewarm water...never hot.
C
CI Dumaran
Guest
When the CADPATs are issued new use a dye mortant. Let me explain.
The dyes used in producing CADPAT are applied and then a treatment both IR and conventional are applied. The Dye is morted (set and no longer active) but some of it is still able to wash out.
When you receive your CADPAT, (this will work with any printed fabric), put it in a pale or sink with enough room temp water to complete submerge in and add a cup of vinegar. Vinegar acts as the Mortant. This sets the remaining dye and helps in the prevention of the fading.
After that has soak for at least and hour then you can wash with mild det or soap in cold and dry.
You only have to do this once when the CADPAT is new. Don‘t bother doing this if it has been worn... The sweat and oil, moisture and other such substances have already affected the material and added a mortant is useless.
It‘s too bad that the current CADPAT‘s base material is a light/white stock. When it fades, quickly I may add, it turns white... Ugly... well, not if you are in need of some arid CADPAT and you haven‘t been issued it. LOL
I notice that the fading depends on care and when you were issued your set. The very first Mks were readily fading even in cold washes. Hopefully the fading will be reduced to an acceptable rate.
The newer CADPAT should be treated to further make the vivid colour of the pattern last longer and not turn white. Perhaps, changing the base material... but then the dye properties would have to change to accomodate for the different material... oh well. Any thing but white.
Well... yes.
I‘m not sure if CADPAT is dry clean safe. I haven‘t really noticed if it was on the tag.
The dyes used in producing CADPAT are applied and then a treatment both IR and conventional are applied. The Dye is morted (set and no longer active) but some of it is still able to wash out.
When you receive your CADPAT, (this will work with any printed fabric), put it in a pale or sink with enough room temp water to complete submerge in and add a cup of vinegar. Vinegar acts as the Mortant. This sets the remaining dye and helps in the prevention of the fading.
After that has soak for at least and hour then you can wash with mild det or soap in cold and dry.
You only have to do this once when the CADPAT is new. Don‘t bother doing this if it has been worn... The sweat and oil, moisture and other such substances have already affected the material and added a mortant is useless.
It‘s too bad that the current CADPAT‘s base material is a light/white stock. When it fades, quickly I may add, it turns white... Ugly... well, not if you are in need of some arid CADPAT and you haven‘t been issued it. LOL
I notice that the fading depends on care and when you were issued your set. The very first Mks were readily fading even in cold washes. Hopefully the fading will be reduced to an acceptable rate.
The newer CADPAT should be treated to further make the vivid colour of the pattern last longer and not turn white. Perhaps, changing the base material... but then the dye properties would have to change to accomodate for the different material... oh well. Any thing but white.
Well... yes.
I‘m not sure if CADPAT is dry clean safe. I haven‘t really noticed if it was on the tag.
C
CI Dumaran
Guest
I agree... but that would depend mostly on were you are and where LF region you are in.
Gunnar
Sr. Member
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Salt water, vinegar, or urine make excellent dyeing mordants. In fact, in the middle ages, stale male urine was usually the best for mordanting fabric.
However, if you‘re not terribly into dyeing in an authentic medieval way, salt or vinegar work just fine. You might even be able to buy commercial mordant at a fabric store and try that if you like.
However, if you‘re not terribly into dyeing in an authentic medieval way, salt or vinegar work just fine. You might even be able to buy commercial mordant at a fabric store and try that if you like.
