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knives and the temptation of the edged weapon....

The manufacturer actually reccomends lubrication with CLP, quite easy to get your hands on a bottle, plus, while mine and Des' knives at the time didn't come with the tool (I had to walk to Canadian tire from the shacks in Kingston to pick up a Torx bit screw driver so I was angry enough at the screw driver when I got back that I put it to work on Des') apparently if you buy them in a blister pack now, they even come with a small hex key sized torx bit to take them apart with. Fantastic if you're buying a folding knife, in the $70-120 range, but well worth it (Though like I said, if you're lucky, stop by a PX or a BX, I happened to grab one for $30 US)
 
The new Spyderco Endura 4 is what I carry at work... very nice.  Spyderco did some real modifications to the old model that in my opinion, make it a totally new knife.  To list:

-  skeletonized steel liners in the handle
-  screw down construction for ease of cleaning
-  redesigned, reinforced tip (to address common tip breaking on old model)
-  handle and blade jimping (read bumps) on the top of the knife where your thumb would commonly lay
-  enlarged opening hole for ease of use with gloves
-  four position pocket clip for left/right, tip up/down carry

Spyderco is also using the new VG-10 steel which I understand is supposed to be more corrosion resistant.  That doesn't mean rust proof, but if you want to go that far, Spyderco invented a new steel, HG-1 which is rust proof.
 
Hmmm...  I'm going to have to check them out.  I've been carrying an Endura for the last 9 yrs now and wouldn't give it up for the world.  Never broke the tip and the only time I had rust issues was when I was in England (coupla small spots) with the high humidity never had any issues here at home.
 
neuromancer said:
Ladys and Gentlemen, I give you the full tang Ninja-toa.

You know you want it, I know I do!
http://www.excaliburcutlery.com/swordsamurai2.html#Anchor-21683

It's tough enough getting away with carrying our individual choices of hardware in the field or on deployment, without getting those "less fortunate" (sans personal hardware) upset.  However, don't you think this is overdoing it just a tad?

Rick, in Ottawa
 
I wanted to dump some general knife knowledge that I think others may benefit from.

IMO you want to have 2 knives on you + a bayonet. A fixed, and a folder, and a bayonet. The bayonet is for killing and use against people, should be easy to get to. The folder is for opening IMPs, cutting rope, whatever you might need it for and kept on your body somewhere in a pocket or w/e. The fixed blade is your survival knife, spend the money on your survival knife because its the heavy duty one. With your survival knife you should be able to hammer, cut, split, skin, do anything you need it to do. Hunting knifes make good survival knives, especially the Cold Steel Master Hunter, or something from benchmade, or Fallkniven F1. The point of having a folder and a fixed is that if you were to lose one then you have a backup, a knife in the wilderness is a very important tool and worth having a backup.

I use a Zero Tolerance 400 (spring assited folder) - This is a recurve blade, the recurve is a huge aid for slashing and cutting. I use my folder for cutting and the sorts so it fits well. I use a Cold Steel Master Hunter for fixed blade, this is a good sized blade, you can put it on your belt and fit the sheath into your back pocket comfortably. The steel on the Cold Steel is Carbon V which is designed for hard use.

Think about the way your carrying your knife. IMO you want to have 2 or more ways to prevent the knife from falling off your body. The folder is simply lanyard off my belt - theres no way to lose it this way. The Cold Steel came with a pretty good sheath, the hilt locks into the sheath and then you button it accross the handle. I wouldn't lanyard the fixed to my belt because if it somehow came out then I could seriously hurt my self if it was just dangling, plus I have a two backups, a bayonet and a folder.

Its a good idea to know how to sharpen a knife, maintaining the knife edge will save you from doing more extensive work on the blade, prolonging the life and durability of the blade itself.

There is a difference between a 20 dollar knife and a 150. The difference lays in the steel and more importantly the durability. Before you buy the knife you want ask your self, "What will I be using this for". The blade design for the knife can either aid you or deter you in what you want you knife to be able to do. For example a recurve is good for cutting and slashing, although its hard to maintain (by hand) and you would have a tougher time skinning an animal with it than with a normal curved blade. A tanto blade is good for killing people with but as a utility knife leaves much to be desired.
 
Quick question, does anyone here know how to sharpen a serrated edge?  I have this great Seal pup knife (http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/botach_1945_103590519) that my dad bought just before he retired his previous knife he claims to have had for 15 years before someone filched it and so he bought this one only a year before he retired.  Now its just over a year old and still holding its original edge but I have heard horror stories about sharpening a serrated edge so i was wondering if anyone has any tips or suggestions they would like to pass on.
 
Thaern said:
Quick question, does anyone here know how to sharpen a serrated edge?  I have this great Seal pup knife (http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/botach_1945_103590519) that my dad bought just before he retired his previous knife he claims to have had for 15 years before someone filched it and so he bought this one only a year before he retired.  Now its just over a year old and still holding its original edge but I have heard horror stories about sharpening a serrated edge so i was wondering if anyone has any tips or suggestions they would like to pass on.

Wow, I am totally suprised someone hasn't jacked me up for that last post yet considering my past experiances with grammer, thank you.  I would like to apologise to anyone who happened to read it.  I must have been hit over the head just prior to writing it because I can't even read it.  What I ment to say was:

Quick question, does anyone here know how to sharpen a serrated edge?  I have this great Seal pup knife (http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/botach_1945_103590519) that my dad bought just before he retired.  His previous knife was stolen about a year before he retired so he bought this one as a replacement.  Right now its just over a year old and still holding its original edge but I have heard horror stories about sharpening a serrated edge so i was wondering if anyone has any tips or suggestions they would like to pass on.
 
You can use a round tapered stone.Or triangular stone.Like a Spyderco's Sharpmake.Or any other knives sharper kits. Just make sure that you get the proper angle. In go up from the cut edge to the end of the serration in just repeat on each serration.
 
Check out the Lansky system with the triangular stone.

http://store.lansky.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;MULTI_ITEM_SUBMIT

Cheers
Bern
 
Has anyone used a RANDALL#1 in the field? I would like to know your opinion .What you like about it or what you dislike about it? I have only used RANDALL'S hunting knives.I have never used the combat models .                  mike  :cdn:
 
BernDawg said:
Hmmm...  I'm going to have to check them out.  I've been carrying an Endura for the last 9 yrs now and wouldn't give it up for the world.  Never broke the tip and the only time I had rust issues was when I was in England (coupla small spots) with the high humidity never had any issues here at home.

If you've been carrying an Endura for that long, you'll really appreciate the improvements that Spyderco has made with the Endura4.  Nothing big, just little tweaks here and there that make for an all around better folder.  I've sold about 70 of them in the past few months (just since Christmas).

They made the same improvements to the Delica and i just sold 15 of them this week to the same guy as gifts for his wedding party...


blake
 
mudgunner49 said:
If you've been carrying an Endura for that long, you'll really appreciate the improvements that Spyderco has made with the Endura4.  Nothing big, just little tweaks here and there that make for an all around better folder.  I've sold about 70 of them in the past few months (just since Christmas).

They made the same improvements to the Delica and i just sold 15 of them this week to the same guy as gifts for his wedding party...


blake

So where is your store?
Always looking for a new place to "get my fix" ;D
I've carried Spydercos for almost 20 years.
Serrated Police, Harpy, Enduras, Rescues and Delicas.
Gave some as wedding party gifts as well.
One of my Recues and Delicas got a some rust spots from salt water down south.
Always thought of adding a Civilian to the collection.. >:D

Cheers,
Ben

 
Old Ranger said:
So where is your store?
Always looking for a new place to "get my fix" ;D
I've carried Spydercos for almost 20 years.
Serrated Police, Harpy, Enduras, Rescues and Delicas.
Gave some as wedding party gifts as well.
One of my Recues and Delicas got a some rust spots from salt water down south.
Always thought of adding a Civilian to the collection.. >:D

Cheers,
Ben

...wherever I happen to be - I do special orders only right now and stock very little.  Drop me a line and we'll talk.  I'm pretty sure the I can beat just about anybody in Canada on whatever I carry  ;)

blake
 
I for one think the bayo is useless.
I carry a fixed blade (MFS Strider) on my holster

Gear-Iraq011.jpg


and the CF SOG tool in a pouch with my GPS on my belt kit.

And some knife porn

Gear-Iraq029.jpg


Gear-Iraq019.jpg


I dont carry the EOD knife regularily since its a fair size knife and heavy - it dont think the added weight has much of a use.  I had been carrying a Benchmade 9050SBT (AFO Auto) but got rod of the folder for uniform wear and just pocket it when in civies.

I've got a few other cool knives (BM Infidel, and some others) - and of course I got the CRKT Iraqi and Enduring Freedom knives just for sentimental reasons.

GOOD knives cost money -- and quite frankly a lot will balk at a $500 price for a tool.
 
Just picked up one of these for < $50 at Bass pro in Vaughn.  Good size and shape, fairly robust, full tang, crappy sheath but that can be remedied in the future.  Over-all a nice starter piece for the active field troop IMO.
 
Does anyone have any feedback on the Benchmade folders with the Axis (sp?) lock?  I like my Ruckus, but I've heard that  it's somewhat vulnerable to grit in the mechanism -  which might be an issue in theatre.  Keeping in mind that the feedback came from someone trying to sell me something else.

And one of the best knives I've had for civy pocket duty is the CKRT MoSkeeter - that serrated section is handy - plus its size doesn't make it look like I'm happy to see everyone when it's tucked into a hip pocket.

 
I would like to have some comments on the Gerber lmf II if it's possible. Thanks in advance!
 
No disrespect to the guys with the custom jobs, and hand to hand interest, I am by no way comparing apples to oranges.

I thought i would offer my own knife story. Mine involves no tensile strength stats, no carbon levels, or urban ninja throwing grips complete with GPS compass and fishing kit. It has no deer skin sheath, and did not come with a sharpening stone.

I have a knife that has been carried with me over the last 3 years through 4 countries, more primitive camping days than i can remember, gutted a few fish, and dug more than its fair share of clams and muscles out from rocks on far off beaches. Its cut up alot of rope and nylon strapping on my pack. Cut out self assembled dressings, and was with me when i was in places that made me stand out as target. To this day it has not a chip, dispite the abuse i have reaped upon it. Its light enough i dont soak up anything in my weight budget when packing my bag. And has 1/2 straight edge and 1/2 serraded. Only thing that could make it better is a flat head for prying things and getting into muscles/clams.
Albeit, i dont pry things with it like a crowbar, its pretty small, and will some day fail me when i need it, but its my favorite knife, and ... this is the best part. It retails for 14$ canadian (right now thats like 3000$ US).
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=936636&Ntt=936636&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=0&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber

Its my favorite. And the day that i lose it. I will shed a tear. But the next day i will go down and get another one from home depot.


 
And now that you have shared, its price has gone up to $15.98.
;D
 
yak -- I've used and know several others who have used Benchmade folders in Afghan with no issues -- now and then you need to clean it.
  the only folder knife I've really had issues with from that was a Microtech Auto that would pop open if it got dirty (made for some nasty cuts)
 
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